On the clutch tube for a 1968-1970 Bug or Ghia, I use a ½” x .060 tube that was 70” long to start with. One end will need to be turned down in the lathe so that the clutch Bowden tube will fit over it. On this last tube I did, I machined the last 1” down to .480”
You will need to cut the tunnel, making 2 access holes to weld the clutch cable tube into place. To do this, I cut an upside-down “U”. Be careful, using something like a Saw Zaw can go too deep and cut other tubes that are running inside the tunnel. I prefer to use a die grinder with a 3”-4” metal cutting disc. Please see attached photos with a tape measure that shows the measurements on where to cut the access holes. (reference photo #2660 & 2658)
On the front access hole, opposite of the pedal assembly, there is already a bracket in the tunnel where the forward part of the tube will be welded when it’s time (reference photo #2663). In this photo, you will be able to see how far forward the tube needs to be.
Now to the tube. The tube does need to be bent and this takes a little figuring out. The tube will stay straight from the front until it gets behind the E-brake handle. At this point it needs to rise in the tunnel and then be bent back to flatten out again.
VERY IMPORTANT: When you bend this tube, make sure that the bends are very gradual. Remember that the clutch cable must go through the bends. If the bends are too tight or sharp, the threaded cable end will not make the bends!
After making the bends, test fit the cable in the tube and ensure it goes through the tube easily BEFORE you install the tube in the pan! On my first install, no one gave this advice to me, and I had to take the tube back out!!
Now you are ready to test fit the tube. The tube will install from the back to the front. Be careful; there are many tubes inside the tunnel. Patience and finesse need to be practiced here. An extra set of hands and eyes are very helpful. Guide the tube all the way to the front access hole and place the tube in place as shown in (reference photo #2663).
The 70” tube should be a little longer and will need to be cut at this point to its final length. You will want the tube to stick out a small amount out of the back of the tunnel. (see attached photo #2665) This photo shows the rear of a stock 4-speed floor pan. The larger tube is the clutch tube, and the smaller is the throttle tube. Once you know how much to trim the clutch tube, you will remove the tube from the pan and cut the front or forward end of the tube.
You should be ready now for the final installation of the clutch tube. Re-install the new clutch tube into the tunnel, once again, being careful to navigate around all the other tubes inside the tunnel. Once everything has been double-checked, tack weld the front end of the tube to the bracket inside the tunnel (reference photo #2663) Go now to the second access hole aft of the E-brake handle. Here you will need to make a small bracket out of some thin strap metal (reference photo #3998). This bracket will go from the inside of the driver’s side of the tunnel to the new tube. This must be done so that the clutch tube does not flex and eventually break. Weld this bracket into place. Next, weld the back of the tube into place.
The last thing to do is to fold the two access hole plates back into position and tack weld them securely. These do not need to be welded completely, just a few tack welds will be enough.
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